Johor Bahru Food Guide: Best Local Eats & Hidden Gems (JB Must-Try!)

Johor Bahru Food Adventure: Kway Teow Kia, Bak Kut Teh, Laksa, and Banana Cake

A culinary journey through Johor Bahru, exploring local favorites from savory noodles to sweet treats.

Rong Shu Xia Kway Teow Kia

Ordering and First Impressions

We started our day in Johor Bahru with the famous Rong Shu Xia Kway Teow Kia. The ordering process was refreshingly simple – "Use your mouth to order!" as the humorous boss suggested. We chose our ingredients, including pork rinds, and ordered a little of everything for three people. The boss even spoke a little Cantonese.

The Kway Teow Kia Experience

The kway teow kia arrived, featuring tofu, egg, pig skin, pork belly, intestines, and huge chunks of pig's blood. The soup had a distinct herbal flavor, reminiscent of Bak Kut Teh but with a peppery note. The kway teow itself was incredibly smooth, similar to hor fun but thinner. The large intestine was tender and didn't taste like typical braised meat.

Unique Flavors and Fried Shallots

The meat tendons were a standout, described as "melting in your mouth." The chili added a delicious sour and spicy kick. A key feature of the dish was the generous amount of crispy, fragrant fried shallots on every component. According to the owner, who is 2nd generation, the shop has been operating since 1978, and is now run by the 3rd generation. They are closed every Wednesday, and business hours are from 7 am to 2 pm.

Overall Impression

The kway teow kia had a unique flavor profile, a blend between Bak Kut Teh and Penang Kwap Chap. It was flavorful yet not heavy, and the fried shallots were the perfect finishing touch. The meal cost RM54, with the kway teow kia at RM2 per bowl and pig's blood costing RM5.

Shoon Huat Bak Kut Teh

Comparing Johor Bahru and KL Bak Kut Teh

Next, we ventured to Shoon Huat Bak Kut Teh, established in 1975, to compare the Johor Bahru style with what we're used to in Kuala Lumpur. We ordered a serving for two with a little of everything, including braised pig's trotter, ginger chicken, and salted vegetables. The restaurant uses a charcoal fire for cooking and heating, with an air-conditioned dining area.

The Soup and Ingredients

The Bak Kut Teh was a clear soup with a very light herbal flavor and a more pronounced meaty flavor. We tasted the kidney, meatballs (which had a dried squid flavor), and bean curd skin. The soup had a subtle hint of dong gui and pepper. It was a clear soup with a light herbal taste, even lighter than the kway teow kia.

Overall Impression

The herbal taste was light, allowing the sweetness of the pork to shine through. The lightness of the soup makes it suitable for those who prefer a more delicate flavor. The meal cost RM83.30, with the basic Bak Kut Teh for two at RM30 and the add-ons totaling RM43. The business started in 1975, in another place, before moving here in 1985.

Foon Yew Laksa

The Famous Curry Laksa

Our third stop was Foon Yew Laksa, famous for its curry laksa since 1976. We joined the long queue and chose our ingredients, including cockles and bean sprouts.

The Laksa Experience

The laksa arrived in a huge serving, costing only RM17 (the juices were RM5 each, totaling RM27 for the meal). The soup was thick, creamy, and rich with coconut milk. We added cockles and the Yong Tau Foo we selected. The curry was fragrant and tasty, a classic Chinese curry flavor.

Sambal and Overall Impression

Adding the chili sambal enhanced the flavor, providing a spicy and seafood umami kick. The affordability, generous portion size, and delicious curry made Foon Yew Laksa a worthwhile experience. The curry is very good. Closed on Mondays, and normal business hours are 9am-4pm.

Hiap Joo Bakery Banana Cake

A Historic Bakery

Our final stop was Hiap Joo Bakery, established in 1919, known for its banana cake baked with wood. We bought 5 boxes of regular banana cakes (RM12 per box) and 7 packs of the "burnt" banana cakes (RM5 per pack), totaling RM95.

The Banana Cake Experience

The banana cake was still hot and incredibly fluffy, full of banana flavor, and not overly sweet. It's best chilled in the refrigerator, as there are no preservatives. The "burnt" banana cake was baked until crispy, resembling roti kok, and was great for dipping in coffee.

Overall Impression

The original banana cake was moist, fluffy, and bursting with banana flavor. The crispy version was a crunchy treat perfect with coffee, although the banana flavor was less pronounced.