This article details a food-filled day in Haikou, the capital city of Hainan Province in Southern China, exploring local culinary delights. From unique dim sum to authentic Hainanese chicken rice and hidden street food markets, this adventure promises a taste of Hainan's distinctive food culture.
Discovering La Ba Tea: A Local Tradition
The journey begins with "La Ba Tea," a Hainanese tradition loosely based on the British high tea concept. Introduced in the early 20th century by overseas workers returning from Southeast Asia, it has since evolved into a unique local food culture.
Exploring the Massive La Ba Tea Restaurant
The experience starts at a local recommended "La Ba Tea" establishment. The sheer size of the restaurant is immediately striking. Arriving on the second floor, the crowd moves to the third floor, revealing an even larger dining room.
Self-Serve Delights and a Wide Array of Drinks
Unlike the Cantonese "Yamcha" concept with food brought to the table, "La Ba Tea" features a self-serve format. A massive bar offers a wide array of food options. The drink menu is equally comprehensive, ranging from various teas and milk teas to coffee, salty lemon water, and even Oreo milk. It is obvious that many locals are drinking teas.
Variety of Dishes: From Dim Sum to Chicken Feet and Beyond
The food selection is incredibly diverse, featuring hot and cold dishes, noodles, congee, wontons, and unique dim sum. Unexpected items like boneless chicken feet alongside nuggets, chips, and ketchup add to the intrigue. Freshly made "Chong Fen," including the red-colored "Hong Mi Chong," are also available.
Sampling the Delicacies: Mango Chong Fen and Hong Mi Chong
The first tasting includes the mango "Chong Fen," a twist on the mango pancake. Next, it's onto the "Hong Mi Chong," the most popular item. The "Hong Mi Chong" features a juicy prawn, a crispy deep-fried layer, a soft outer skin, and a sweet and sour dipping sauce with corn and celery for added crunch. It is the ultimate balance of texture and flavor. The mango "Chong Fen," filled with pure mango, provides a sweet and refreshing contrast, combining sweet mangoes with a light coconut wrapping and sweet mango sauce.
Tropical Dim Sum and Strong Flavors
Next, a tropical twist on dim sum is sampled, featuring pork with an eggplant base and a sweet and sour sauce. The flavor proves to be quite strong and best shared.
A Brief Beach Visit and a Change of Plans
The next stop is Holiday Beach. However, an approaching storm forces a quick evacuation, cutting the beach visit short.
Hainanese Chicken Rice: The OG Version
Lunch focuses on another Hainanese culinary icon: Hainanese chicken rice, known locally as "Wenchang Chicken" after a breed of chicken known to be delicious. The chickens are free-range and fed a tropical diet of coconut and peanut bran.
Discovering Wong Chicken Restaurant
The restaurant, recommended by a local friend, is filled with patrons enjoying the chicken. Large buckets of dipping sauces are provided alongside the chicken rice and the chicken itself.
Tasting the Authentic Flavors
The chicken, although slightly tougher than versions found elsewhere, is flavorful and salty, with a soft, jelly-like skin. The rice is subtly chickeny, complementing the chicken and sauces. Compared to international renditions, this dish is more subtle in taste. The dish consists of more than just breast meat.
The Diaspora's Influence: From Chicken Rice to La Ba Tea
The meal highlights the impact of the Hainanese diaspora, with Hainanese chicken rice spreading globally and "La Ba Tea" being introduced to Hainan by returning workers.
Exploring the Architectural Fusion of Qilou Old Street
After lunch, a walk through Qilou Old Street reveals an eclectic fusion of architectural styles introduced by overseas merchants in the 1920s. The architecture reminds one of the Kaiping Dialou, in Guangdong Province. These structures blend European, Asian, Indian, and Arabic influences, showcasing a unique combination of styles.
Trying Lao Yan Salted Guava Drink
A popular local drink, "Lao Yan," is sampled. "Lao Yan" means old salt in the local dialect. Made from guava and salt, the drink is refreshing but the flavor of guava is subtle and nuanced.
Discovering a Hidden Street Food Market
A hidden street food market offers a vibrant array of local delicacies.
Deep-Fried Chicken Wing and Unexpected Generosity
A deep-fried chicken wing, previously seen at breakfast, is tried but found to be oily and unremarkable. However, the vendor of another store allows sitting at his establishment while sampling and generously offers a free plate of food.
Duck Intestine, Prawns, and Fish Stomach
The free dish includes duck intestine, prawns, clams, and fish stomach. The duck intestine is crunchy and flavorful, while the fish stomach has a soft, jelly-like texture. Raw prawns are also sampled.
Multicolored Cold Prawn Ice Drink
The final food item is the "Multicolored Cold Prawn Ice Drink." Despite its name, it contains no actual prawn. It consists of a plant-based ingredient with jellies and brown sugar water. While tasty and refreshing, it's less intensely sweet than expected.
A Dramatic Sunset
The day concludes with a visit to a waterfront spot for sunset viewing. Despite rain and thunderstorms, a dramatic sunset emerges.
Reflecting on a Day of Culinary Exploration
Although a planned night market visit is skipped due to fullness, the day has been a fulfilling exploration of Haikou's unique food culture. The adventure has showcased the city's diverse culinary influences and unexpected delights.
{# 
{# 
{# 
{# 
{#