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China's "One Street, Two Systems": Exploring the Unique Zhongying Street

Summary

Quick Abstract

Explore the fascinating history of Zhongying Street in Shenzhen, where you can straddle the border between mainland China and Hong Kong! This unique street, once a bustling hub for cross-border trade, offers a glimpse into a bygone era. Discover its historical significance and experience the cultural contrasts.

Quick Takeaways:

  • Witness the "one street, two systems" phenomenon firsthand, with distinct architectural styles reflecting both Shenzhen and Hong Kong.

  • Learn about the street's past as a thriving trade center for Hong Kong goods, including its heyday when gold was a major draw.

  • See historical relics like boundary markers and the iconic Banyan tree symbolizing the intertwined roots of the two regions.

  • Understand the impact of China's economic rise on Zhongying Street's diminished commercial role.

  • Get a peek into the lives of residents living within this unique border zone.

Walk along the street, observe the historical artifacts, and learn about its evolution from a bustling commercial center to a landmark of cultural and historical significance. Note: A permit is required to enter Zhongying Street!

Exploring the Unique History and Culture of Zhongying Street

Zhongying Street, located in Shenzhen, China, is a remarkable place where you can experience two distinct systems within a single street. On one side, Hong Kong operates with Hong Kong dollars under its own system, strictly separated by a border from the other side, Shenzhen. This "one street, two systems" setup offers a fascinating glimpse into the contrasting cultures and histories of these two regions.

Experiencing Cantonese Dim Sum

One of the first experiences is diving into the rich tradition of Cantonese zao cha (morning tea). Unlike the simpler breakfasts common in Northern China, Cantonese zao cha is an elaborate affair. A wide variety of dim sum dishes are available, including:

  • Har Gow (Shrimp Dumplings): Delicate, translucent wrappers filled with plump shrimp.

  • Chicken Feet: Tender and flavorful, often braised in a rich sauce.

  • Glutinous Rice Chicken in Lotus Leaf: Fragrant and savory rice and chicken wrapped in a lotus leaf.

  • Rice Noodle Rolls: Silky smooth rice noodles served with various fillings.

  • Custard Buns: Soft, fluffy buns filled with sweet custard.

Many locals, especially the elderly, enjoy zao cha for hours, turning it into a social event extending well into the afternoon. A typical meal costs around 60 yuan per person. The experience is completed by a pot of Chrysanthemum tea, a refreshing and cleansing accompaniment to the rich food.

Crossing into Zhongying Street: A Journey Through Time

To enter Zhongying Street, you need a permit, which can be obtained online for free. However, tourists are often limited to only one permit per month. Despite the permit requirements, the street often bustles with people eager to experience its unique atmosphere.

The street itself feels like a small town, with residents living within its boundaries. A physical barrier separates Shenzhen on one side from Hong Kong on the other. Shenzhen showcases modern architecture and a contemporary feel, while Hong Kong exudes a nostalgic, 1980s-90s vibe. This creates a powerful sense of temporal and spatial contrast. It's crucial to be vigilant, as some individuals might offer money for carrying goods across the border, which is potentially illegal.

Historical Significance and Key Landmarks

  • The Century-Old Banyan Tree: This tree, with its roots firmly planted in Shenzhen and branches extending into Hong Kong, symbolizes good fortune and is deeply rooted in the area's history. Local belief is that this tree brings safety to the fisherman.

  • Border Markers: These markers delineate the boundary between Shenzhen and Hong Kong's past colonial territories.

  • The Old Boundary Marker: Dating back to the late Qing Dynasty, marks where the British colonial region began.

  • The National and Regional Flags: Displayed side-by-side, these flags represent the unique political arrangement of Hong Kong as a Special Administrative Region of China.

A Glimpse into the Past

Photos and exhibits recreate the historical atmosphere of Zhongying Street during the British lease period. Displays highlight the stark differences in military technology between the Qing Dynasty and the British forces. While Qing soldiers relied on basic firearms and melee weapons, the British possessed advanced weaponry, including steam-powered ironclad warships and revolvers. The exhibition also contains historical artifacts like firearms used by Qing Dynasty troops.

Historical records and documentaries reveal the street's past as a hub for purchasing Hong Kong goods. In the past, Zhongying Street was known for selling sought-after goods like gold, baby formula, and biscuits, attracting visitors from across China. At its peak in the early 1990s, it drew as many as 100,000 visitors per day. However, the presence of counterfeit goods necessitates caution when shopping.

Zhongying Street Today

While shopping is no longer the primary draw, Zhongying Street offers a unique cultural and historical experience. Some proposed renaming the street "Shen-Gang Street" after Hong Kong's return to China in 1997, it wasn't implemented. This decision preserved the street's historical significance and served as a reminder of past events.

China's rise to become a global manufacturing leader has also impacted Zhongying Street. The increasing competitiveness and quality of domestic brands, coupled with the rise of e-commerce, have reduced the street's prominence as a shopping destination.

Exploring the Local Area

A walk around the town reveals local life within Zhongying Street. The residential buildings on the Hong Kong side have a distinctive, older style. Despite its small size, the area has all essential facilities, including a fire station, basketball courts, and schools. Even modern logistics services like "Cainiao" operate here, using traditional Chinese characters. The fact that the area is currently undergoing demolition suggests that the residents are likely to become quite wealthy due to compensations.

While the author didn't cross over to the restricted area of Sha Tau Kok in Hong Kong, they proposed the idea of visiting this restricted area if there was enough interest shown by viewers, using the comments section as the gauge.

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