Exploring Fujian Cuisine with the Michelin Guide
This food adventure continues through Fujian province, discovering delicious food and the passionate people who create it. From Quanzhou to Fuzhou, this journey explores Michelin-recognized restaurants and dives into the heart of Fujianese culinary traditions.
Quanzhou: A City of History, Culture, and Amazing Food
Quanzhou, a beautiful coastal city in Fujian province, boasts a rich history, vibrant culture, and, of course, incredible food. The previous day's exploration led to what was called "the best dish" ever eaten in Fujian Province. Today, the adventure begins with a traditional Fujianese breakfast.
Mian Xian Hu: A Bib Gourmand Breakfast
A small eatery, recognized with a Bib Gourmand distinction (tasty and affordable), specializes in mian xian hu (面线糊). This traditional dish emphasizes layered flavors with minimal ingredients. The owner, who has been in business for over 40 years, missed the award ceremony because she didn't want to take a day off work.
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Main Ingredient: Thin vermicelli wheat noodles, perfect for soaking up the rich broth.
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Toppings: Fried meat, fresh oysters, egg, and stewed intestines.
The dish is described as peppery, umami, salty, hearty, and warming. It's often enjoyed with youtiao (fried dough sticks), which are dipped into the broth for added crunch and flavor. The owner's kindness and passion make the experience even more special.
12 Coffee: A Hidden Gem in a Historic Setting
Before heading to Fuzhou, a visit to a unique coffee shop called 12 Coffee. Located in a hidden alleyway within a cluster of historical homes, it offers a charming atmosphere. You can enjoy your coffee inside the traditional house or on the terrace overlooking the city.
Fuzhou: The Capital City and Michelin-Selected Restaurants
Fuzhou, the capital of Fujian Province, marks the next stage of this culinary journey. The focus shifts to Michelin-selected restaurants, establishments that the Michelin Guide recognizes as promising, potentially for future stars or Bib Gourmand awards.
Lao Hua: A Fujian Malatang Experience
The first stop in Fuzhou is Lao Hua (or 'Lao Huo' in the local dialect), a restaurant specializing in a customizable noodle dish similar to malatang. You select your preferred ingredients, which are then combined with rice noodles and broth.
- Ingredients: Vegetables, tofu, fish balls, meat, taro, seaweed, blood, mushrooms, sausage, clams, oysters, and prawns.
The dish allows for personal customization. Toppings like chili sauce, prawn oil, and garlic soy sauce (suantou jiang) can be added. Dipping ingredients into these sauces instead of pouring them directly into the soup is recommended to maintain the broth's flavor.
A Starred Restaurant: Fotiaoqiang and Culinary Excellence
The final restaurant on this Michelin tour boasts a coveted Michelin star, one of the first in Fujian province. A one-star rating signifies "high-quality cooking, worth a stop." The restaurant provides a unique dining experience, set within three ancient Ming Dynasty courtyard buildings and even featuring a guzheng player. Each guest receives a piece of calligraphy.
Fotiaoqiang: Buddha Jumps Over the Wall
The signature dish is fotiaoqiang (佛跳墙), also known as "Buddha jumps over the wall," an opulent soup with luxurious ingredients.
- Ingredients: Abalone, sea cucumber, fish maw, scallop, and mushrooms.
The sea cucumber, the source of a previous unfortunate incident, takes center stage once again. The soup is rich and umami-flavored, with incredibly tender ingredients. The preparation process for this dish takes a week, with the boiling alone taking two days.
Lizhirou: Lychee Pork with a Twist
A creative spin on the classic Fuzhou dish, lizhirou (荔枝肉), or lychee pork, features a water chestnut wrapped in tender pork tenderloin and deep-fried. The result is a sweet and sour flavor with a satisfying crunch.
Pork Liver: A Surprising Favorite
Surprisingly, one of the most memorable dishes is pork liver. Meticulous preparation, including the use of white pepper to counteract the metallic aftertaste, results in a tender and flavorful dish that even a liver skeptic can enjoy.
Conclusion
This culinary journey through Fujian province, guided by the Michelin Guide, provided invaluable insights into the region's diverse and delicious cuisine. From humble Bib Gourmand eateries to starred restaurants offering immersive dining experiences, the food of Fujian is both deeply rooted in tradition and open to creative innovation.
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