This article chronicles a journey to Gansu Province in Northwest China, focusing on its diverse landscapes and unique culinary offerings. The adventure begins in the provincial capital, Lanzhou, and promises a taste of both the region's iconic dishes and its more adventurous fare.
Returning to Gansu
After a previous visit seven years prior, the traveler felt compelled to return to Gansu Province. The diverse scenery, from grasslands to snow-capped mountains and deserts, is captivating. The Chinese phrase "dzer," meaning "big nature," perfectly encapsulates the province's stunning landscapes. Gansu's long and skinny shape contributes to the varied environments encountered from north to south.
First Stop: Lanzhou
The initial destination is Lanzhou, the provincial capital. Surprisingly, this is the traveler's first time visiting the city. Previous trips bypassed Lanzhou, opting for a 48-hour train journey from Beijing directly to Dunhuang, a city near the Gobi Desert. This earlier visit involved fulfilling a childhood dream of being a stuntwoman in a Kung Fu movie trailer.
A Kung Fu Past
Inspired by watching Ip Man, the traveler studied Wing Chun martial arts for a year in Sydney. Upon moving to Beijing, she joined a martial arts academy that trained actors for films. This led to an invitation to Gansu Province to film a teaser trailer for a Kung Fu movie. The experience involved stunts and fight scenes, ultimately revealing that stunt work wasn't the right career path.
Lanzhou's Culinary Icon: Beef Noodles
The main purpose of this trip is to explore the food of Gansu Province, and what better place to start than with Lanzhou's most famous dish: Lanzhou beef noodles. These noodles are ubiquitous throughout China.
The Anatomy of a Perfect Bowl
A classic bowl of Lanzhou beef noodles consists of the following:
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Thinly sliced Halal beef
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Chewy, springy, freshly-made noodles
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Green coriander and spring onion
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Clear broth
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White radish
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A splash of vibrant red chili oil
While seemingly simple, the dish requires mastery in noodle pulling and hours of simmering to create the flavorful broth. Locals believe the soup tastes best in the morning, making it a popular breakfast choice.
Experiencing Authentic Lanzhou Noodles
At Cheni Ji, a local establishment in Lanzhou, the menu is simple: beef noodles. While the standard bowl includes minimal beef, it is recommended to pay extra for more generous slices. Customers select their preferred noodle thickness, ranging from extremely thin to thick and flat. A medium thickness, known as "Er Xi," is favored by locals.
The chili oil (Ladel) is a significant element, and the cook does not skimp on it. However, some locals reportedly add upwards of 10 spoons of chili oil to their bowls. Despite the generous amount of chili, the smokiness adds a unique dimension to the flavor without being overly spicy. Vinegar added at the end gives the soup a refreshing twist. The beef is tender and the combination of noodles, broth, and toppings creates an incredible dish.
Exploring Lanzhou: The Yellow River
Beyond the noodles, the Yellow River flows directly through Lanzhou. The river's distinct yellow-brown color comes from sediment picked up in the Loess Plateau.
The Zhongshan Bridge
The Zhongshan Bridge, completed in 1909, was the first permanent bridge over the Yellow River. Previously, a floating bridge existed but was prone to annual flooding. The bridge is a landmark of the city and is particularly beautiful when lit up at night.
Tea by the River
Instead of hiking up White Pagoda Mountain, the traveler opted for a relaxing tea experience by the river.
Sanpaotai Tea
The drink of choice was "Sanpaotai," a local tea blend enjoyed with other goodies. The tea is served in large thermoses, allowing for unlimited refills.
Sampling Local Fruits
Gansu Province is known for its sweet fruits. A selection of local fruits were purchased and enjoyed.
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Peaches: Both fuzzy and fuzzless varieties, exceptionally sweet and juicy.
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Apricots: Very sweet and soft with a peach-like flavor.
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Green Fruit: An unidentified green fruit, surprisingly sweet, with a texture similar to rockmelon or cantaloupe.
The tea initially lacked strong flavor but developed into a more intense and sweeter brew with each refill.
Sheepskin Rafts on the Yellow River
While walking along the Yellow River, the traveler discovered traditional sheepskin rafts. These rafts were historically used for transportation and can now be rented for a ride on the river. A speedboat transports passengers and their rafts a few kilometers upstream, allowing for a leisurely float back.
Sheep's Head: An Adventurous Culinary Challenge
A night market in Lanzhou offered a unique and intimidating culinary experience: sheep's head. The traveler, initially hesitant, decided to embrace the challenge.
Sheep Tongue
The journey began with sheep tongue, flavored with a potent chili sauce. The texture was pleasant, and the meat itself had a surprisingly subtle flavor without the strong aftertaste often associated with mutton.
Sheep Brain
Next up was the sheep brain, dipped in sauce. The texture was soft and tender, similar to pâté. The taste was mild and more pleasant than expected.
Sheep Eyeball
The ultimate test was the sheep eyeball. Overcoming a lifelong aversion to eyeballs, the traveler, with encouragement from newfound friends, bravely consumed the eyeball. The texture was surprisingly pleasant, and the taste was similar to everything else eaten so far due to the spicy sauce. The challenge was more mental than physical, and the accomplishment was a source of pride.
Final Thoughts
The culinary adventure in Lanzhou was a success, pushing boundaries and revealing unexpected delights. The traveler looks forward to exploring more of Gansu Province and its diverse food culture.
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