Singapore is renowned for its diverse and delicious food scene, which extends far beyond typical mealtimes. In this article, we delve into the heart of Singapore's supper culture, exploring the late-night meals and culinary adventures that locals and visitors alike cherish.
What is Supper?
Supper in Singapore is more than just a late-night snack; it's a social phenomenon and a testament to the nation's love for food. For Singaporeans, three meals a day are often not enough, leading to the embrace of "supper" as an extension of the culinary experience. It’s a second dinner that provides an opportunity to indulge in local favorites and extend the enjoyment of the night.
Golden Mile Food Centre: A Supper Starting Point
Our supper adventure begins at Golden Mile Food Centre, a bustling hub even at 9 p.m. Many stalls remain open, catering to the late-night cravings of hungry patrons.
Dean 17 and Soup Tulang
Our first stop is Dean 17, famous for its soup tulang. This dish features lamb or mutton marrow drenched in a rich, vibrant red sauce, a striking sight for newcomers. The sauce's unique color comes from a blend of ketchup, chili sambal, and a touch of red food dye. Eating tulang is a hands-on experience. The marrow is extracted from the bone using tools or even by sucking the marrow out. The meat, imported from Australia, boasts high quality. The dish offers peppery rather than spicy flavor.
Roti John: A Colonial-Era Sandwich
Next on the menu is roti john, an omelette sandwich made with a local bread loaf similar to a French baguette.
The Origins of Roti John
The name roti john reportedly originated during colonial times when Indian Muslim hawkers were asked by colonial soldiers to create a bread-based dish. "John" became a generic name for foreigners, resulting in "Roti John." The sandwich is topped with a red sauce and includes fried egg, onions, and mutton.
Geylang: A Supper Hotspot
Our second stop takes us to Geylang, known as Singapore's red light district but also celebrated for its diverse culinary offerings and famous supper spots.
Frog Porridge: A Comforting Delight
The highlight of Geylang is the frog porridge, a popular dish with frog prepared separately from the congee. The frog is braised in a dark soy ginger chili sauce, while the congee is smooth and comforting. The sauce is then generously poured over the congee. The frog is incredibly tender. The combination is both soothing and flavorful.
Gong Gong: A Seafood Delicacy
Another offering is gong gong, sea snails served with a chili, lime, and garlic dipping sauce. The snails are extracted from their shells and dipped in the flavorful sauce, offering a burst of salty, sour, and umami flavors.
Swee Choon: A Dim Sum Institution
Our final culinary destination is Swee Choon, a dim sum restaurant operating since 1962, even before Singapore's independence. It has expanded from a small stall to encompass an entire block and remains incredibly popular late into the night, operating from 7 a.m. to 4 a.m.
Unique Dim Sum Creations
Swee Choon boasts an extensive menu, offering both classic and innovative dim sum dishes. We tried a sweet potato salted egg custard ball, mee sua kueh (cake-ified vermicelli), a tofu bun, and a prawn and banana fritter. The sweet potato custard buns have a crispy outer layer and chewy interior and a beautiful color.
Tofu Bomb and Prawn-Banana Fritter
The tofu bomb features a crispy tofu exterior filled with prawn, chives, and a flavorful broth. The prawn and banana fritter was more controversial. While beautifully fried, the banana flavor was overpowering, making it an unusual combination.
Mustafa Centre: Late-Night Shopping
To aid digestion, we head to Mustafa Centre, a 24-hour shopping mall spanning multiple floors. Here, you can find a wide range of products, from Tiger Balm and fans to USB mini food processors and groceries.
Roti Prata: A Sweet and Savory Finale
Our supper journey concludes in Little India with roti prata, a customizable flatbread that can be sweet or savory.
Coin Prata and Prata Bomb
We try the coin prata, a crispy, layered flatbread dipped in chicken and fish curry. The prata bomb is a sweet version filled with condensed milk. The coin prata is crispy, layered, and is amazing with the curry, with free refills on the curry too. The bomb prata is a sweet pancake that is loved.
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